therick
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Joined on: Jan 23, 2018 14:36:55 GMT -5
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Post by therick on Jan 21, 2019 14:34:55 GMT -5
Have tried soaking the figure in Goo Gone, Exacto-blades up and down the seams, screwdriver, drilling holes in the armpit... everything seems to leave at least a mark or two when you pry and bend... sometimes the chest piece just stretches out a bit and you get white "scars" under the man-boobs or on the muscles along the spine (do those go away under clear coat, btw?) Some figures simply refuse to open - (Roman Reigns, I'm looking at you). Fellow customizers, I'm at a loss. Is there something I'm missing? A special tool one can use? Thanks all!
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inevitabledeth
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Joined on: Mar 7, 2015 14:14:30 GMT -5
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Post by inevitabledeth on Jan 21, 2019 15:01:35 GMT -5
I'm more or less in the same boat. I've been practicing with fodder, but the results have varied.
I typically let the figure soak in a mug of microwave heated water (about 2 minutes), take apart the rubbery pieces (head, arms, etc) then I take my time cutting at the seams, stopping to resoak the figure if it isn't budging much, and then once I get a section to open up, I try to carefully pry it open with a 1/4" flathead screwdriver. Sometimes the lines are not as clean as I'd like, sometimes I get the "white scars". Heck, sometimes the plastic/ paint seems to fade and look terrible.
However, I'm sure there are better tools and methods.
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Henchmen4Hire
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Post by Henchmen4Hire on Jan 21, 2019 15:38:45 GMT -5
Some figures are easier to split than others, depends on how much glue they used at the factory.
Recently a red barbed wire Jericho was super easy to split with my bare hands after the boiling water dunk. The glue in the pegs was completely "liquefied/oozed" by the heat. DM Jericho and the cheap Sammy Sayn on sale recently have been more typical cases, where I use a chisel to help separate the parts after the dunking.
Skinny pry tools like screwdrivers leave marks because you're applying a lot of pressure in a small area, it's basic physics. Use a wider tipped tool (like the chisel).
You still need a careful touch though, and even then sometimes you get a stubborn fig (too much glue?) and stress marks happen.
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Deleted
Joined on: Nov 23, 2024 15:32:58 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Jan 23, 2019 12:18:45 GMT -5
Someone here years ago stated that to get rid of the stress marks, hold a lighter up to the marks and they disappear. I wouldn't put the flame directly on the figure. Just near the stress marks.
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inevitabledeth
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Joined on: Mar 7, 2015 14:14:30 GMT -5
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Post by inevitabledeth on Jan 23, 2019 13:13:43 GMT -5
Someone here years ago stated that to get rid of the stress marks, hold a lighter up to the marks and they disappear. I wouldn't put the flame directly on the figure. Just near the stress marks. I've also heard this numerous times but don't really feel comfortable trying it. Is there some kind of rules of thumb? |
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Deleted
Joined on: Nov 23, 2024 15:32:58 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Jan 23, 2019 13:15:27 GMT -5
Someone here years ago stated that to get rid of the stress marks, hold a lighter up to the marks and they disappear. I wouldn't put the flame directly on the figure. Just near the stress marks. I've also heard this numerous times but don't really feel comfortable trying it. Is there some kind of rules of thumb? All I know is to hold the flame a few inches away from the stress marks and they disappear. I've never tried it myself. Maybe someone can confirm? |
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inevitabledeth
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Post by inevitabledeth on Jan 23, 2019 13:20:33 GMT -5
Looks like my John Moxley may just have to be the Martyr. Now, where's that lighter...
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therick
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Joined on: Jan 23, 2018 14:36:55 GMT -5
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Post by therick on Jan 24, 2019 17:20:23 GMT -5
Looks like my John Moxley may just have to be the Martyr. Now, where's that lighter... Wow, do report back! I might try this with a couple of torsos I've carked up... hmm... |
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Henchmen4Hire
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Joined on: Jan 12, 2016 23:48:35 GMT -5
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Post by Henchmen4Hire on Jan 24, 2019 18:30:24 GMT -5
Keep in mind there's no magic to removing stress marks, this is all physics. If the flame really works it's because...it's heating the plastic to the point where it relaxes back into the original state. I guess. Figure out why the plastic discolors and you can start to find a solution. That said, you could try an actual heat gun for more control, to get similar results by heating the plastic just under the point of melting. Anyway, yeah report your findings  |
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Deleted
Joined on: Nov 23, 2024 15:32:58 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Jan 25, 2019 3:01:39 GMT -5
Can confirm that yes using a lighter held near the stress mark will remove it. Used to do it back when I was customising.
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therick
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Joined on: Jan 23, 2018 14:36:55 GMT -5
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Post by therick on Jan 27, 2019 17:16:28 GMT -5
So I just tried it on a few figs with a hair dryer turned to high. It seems like different torsos are made of different stuff... had a JBL torso that practically melted when the glue got hot and superheated the plastic, stress marks disappeared but the plastic got a little warped. Once it cooled down I tried to heat it again using the same method to no avail.
Tried it then on a stressed out torso I had cracked from a ringmaster fig. The torso didn’t budge an inch.
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Henchmen4Hire
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Post by Henchmen4Hire on Jan 27, 2019 17:51:19 GMT -5
Just to clarify, use boiling water to separate torsos, not hot air. The hot water applied directly to the glue is what helps dissolve it (that's my best guess for why it works), heat alone just burns it like toast.
Glue formulas may have changed though, which is why some figures are tougher to split than others.
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therick
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Joined on: Jan 23, 2018 14:36:55 GMT -5
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Post by therick on Jan 29, 2019 21:20:43 GMT -5
Just to clarify, use boiling water to separate torsos, not hot air. The hot water applied directly to the glue is what helps dissolve it, heat alone just burns it like toast. (That's my best guess for why it works.) Glue formulas may have changed though, which is why some figures are tougher to split than others. Ohhhh hmmm thanks for the tip! I've been blow drying my figures, thinking boiling would unleash plastic or toxins into my cookware. Also, boiling doesn't affect the paint/decals? Maybe I'll use an old pot or something... |
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Henchmen4Hire
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Post by Henchmen4Hire on Jan 29, 2019 21:36:32 GMT -5
I use a coffee cup and stick it in the microwave for 2-3 minutes, same thing
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therick
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Joined on: Jan 23, 2018 14:36:55 GMT -5
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Post by therick on Jan 29, 2019 21:44:31 GMT -5
I use a coffee cup and stick it in the microwave for 2-3 minutes, same thing Oh man, that totally worked! And it even undid the stretch marks on a torso I'd jacked up! Thanks so much  |
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schmerzdj
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Joined on: Mar 2, 2019 19:37:29 GMT -5
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Post by schmerzdj on Mar 19, 2019 18:48:56 GMT -5
Just to clarify, use boiling water to separate torsos, not hot air. The hot water applied directly to the glue is what helps dissolve it, heat alone just burns it like toast. (That's my best guess for why it works.) Glue formulas may have changed though, which is why some figures are tougher to split than others. Ohhhh hmmm thanks for the tip! I've been blow drying my figures, thinking boiling would unleash plastic or toxins into my cookware. Also, boiling doesn't affect the paint/decals? Maybe I'll use an old pot or something... i just put boiling water in a thermos mug and let the fig soak for a few mins.. i dont microwave
i think the water also works great cause it gets inside the fig and heats the glue from all sides as opposed to other methods that heat from 1 side |
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garbagemon
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Post by garbagemon on Apr 5, 2019 15:06:01 GMT -5
I bought an old Pyrex baking dish at one of the local thrift shops, and then just boil water in my tea kettle or a pan on the stove. I toss the figure in, and pour the boiling water over them. Let 'em soak a few minutes, and usually things are pretty bendy. Mind you, it's Jakks taking this punishment most often, but Mattels seem to react well, too. The hardest part is usually pouring the boiling water out of the figures while hurrying to work with them at their hottest.
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