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Post by mrhoss on Mar 3, 2014 15:02:18 GMT -5
Hulkster, always look forward to when you receive stuff. So glad you got back into collecting after buying that car. Anyways, do you have a Jakks RVD? I actually prefer the Jakks scan for a spaced-out weed junkie look over this Mattel scan, wondering if the skin-tones would match. Hey Bandy, I'm going to post this here rather than highjack HL4's haul thread. Over the weekend I did some experimenting with alternate RVD heads since I wasn't too high on Mattel's scan. I think I own all of his Jakks' scans. I narrowed my choices down to what I felt were the best three. I wasn't very pleased with the results. IMO, they're all too big, the side profiles seem off. The best fitting is probably the middle, which was a cheap Havoc Unleashed figure. I didn't bother with R3 and TTL since I think they're a notch below the Mattel scan. DA's and DI's are too big.    |
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Post by The Champ is Here! on Mar 3, 2014 15:52:49 GMT -5
What's a good recipe for Sabu
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Post by Affliction: Elite Trader on Mar 3, 2014 17:02:28 GMT -5
What's a good recipe for Sabu Take a look at the last 3 or 4 pages. There have been some killer Sabu's and recipes provided. Hope that helps buddy |
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Post by King Richius on Mar 3, 2014 17:08:41 GMT -5
Hulkster, always look forward to when you receive stuff. So glad you got back into collecting after buying that car. Anyways, do you have a Jakks RVD? I actually prefer the Jakks scan for a spaced-out weed junkie look over this Mattel scan, wondering if the skin-tones would match. Hey Bandy, I'm going to post this here rather than highjack HL4's haul thread. Over the weekend I did some experimenting with alternate RVD heads since I wasn't too high on Mattel's scan. I think I own all of his Jakks' scans. I narrowed my choices down to what I felt were the best three. I wasn't very pleased with the results. IMO, they're all too big, the side profiles seem off. The best fitting is probably the middle, which was a cheap Havoc Unleashed figure. I didn't bother with R3 and TTL since I think they're a notch below the Mattel scan. DA's and DI's are too big. The first and third heads don't work for me. They sit too low and the chin is below the adam's apple. The second is okay but honestly I would stick with the Mattel head. |
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Post by mrhoss on Mar 3, 2014 17:21:20 GMT -5
The first and third heads don't work for me. They sit too low and the chin is below the adam's apple. The second is okay but honestly I would stick with the Mattel head. Yeah, I wasn't happy with the results and ended up using the Mattel head. |
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Deleted
Joined on: Nov 18, 2024 10:34:40 GMT -5
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Mar 3, 2014 18:25:15 GMT -5
There's a better rvd jakks head used here often isn't there?
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Post by PJ on Mar 3, 2014 19:06:43 GMT -5
There's a better rvd jakks head used here often isn't there? I think they use the R3 and Havock Unleashed heads because they are scaled the best, but Mattel's sculpt is better than them. |
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chargrove
Superstar
Joined on: Nov 4, 2011 1:42:54 GMT -5
Posts: 957
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Post by chargrove on Mar 3, 2014 21:03:26 GMT -5
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chargrove
Superstar
Joined on: Nov 4, 2011 1:42:54 GMT -5
Posts: 957
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Post by chargrove on Mar 3, 2014 21:26:37 GMT -5
Hey guys, just wanted to share a post conversation that I had with another member regarding painting and sealing figures and how to prevent paint from scratching off of your customs (for the most part) Sorry for the long post, but it seems to be a HUGE question to most and seems to never go away, anyway: Thanks bro, so I just use a combination of different acrylic paints, usually consisting of a base of a store bought 'skin tone' and different browns and oranges mixed in to achieve a tan skin tone. Yes, they are fully sealed with all original Elite articulation still in tact  I'm a bit incredulous. It's easy to make a figure look pretty with paint, but very hard to make one durable and scratch-resistant, especially with acrylic. Could I scrape off that paint with my fingernail, or would it scuff up a white ring cloth or another figure if clashed? Can you explain your sealing process? Understood, so this is my routine for painting a figure, beginning to end. I spray figure to prep surfaces after sanding down joints to prevent paint from chipping off and scratching while moving parts or posing with this:  Now, after surface is covered with base tack coat of primer, the figure is then painted, head to toe with acrylic paint. Don't get crazy with this shit, paint is paint in most cases. I buy whatever is on sale in which ever color I need whether it needs to be mixed or it's a staple paint like black or white in which I don't finish a figure without the use of. So, we've covered our fig in primer and it's been prepped for paint, we laid down some paint and the fig is ready to be sealed. I then spray with this:  After this has been sprayed, the figure will achieve a semi-gloss look, much like the figures we buy from Mattel and Jakks. The difference being, obviously, if you were to try and scratch the figure with a blade or something sharp like a finger nail, eventually you would get through and chip away some of the paint as my parts have not been dyed to fit the color achieved. It will not scuff up any ring canvas' that you might play on, but like all customizes that produced figs with complete repaints, I would advise you to play at your own risk. Hope I helped. I hope you guys can take something away from that post, hope it could help you guys that are having issues with paint rubbing off of your hard work! |
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Deleted
Joined on: Nov 18, 2024 10:34:40 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Mar 3, 2014 21:59:45 GMT -5
That's a great bigelow char grove. Love the sculpted neckline
To add on to what chargrove said, if you play with your Mattel figures, paint fades and chips after a while .... Customs are no different, well they are different as they aren't made in a factory and can't handle as much abuse as a factory Mattel figure. Good customizers sand joints and seal figures so you can pose your custom and maybe lightly play but customs are better used for display.
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Deleted
Joined on: Nov 18, 2024 10:34:40 GMT -5
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Mar 3, 2014 22:44:25 GMT -5
Hey guys, just wanted to share a post conversation that I had with another member regarding painting and sealing figures and how to prevent paint from scratching off of your customs (for the most part) Sorry for the long post, but it seems to be a HUGE question to most and seems to never go away, anyway: I'm a bit incredulous. It's easy to make a figure look pretty with paint, but very hard to make one durable and scratch-resistant, especially with acrylic. Could I scrape off that paint with my fingernail, or would it scuff up a white ring cloth or another figure if clashed? Can you explain your sealing process? Understood, so this is my routine for painting a figure, beginning to end. I spray figure to prep surfaces after sanding down joints to prevent paint from chipping off and scratching while moving parts or posing with this: Now, after surface is covered with base tack coat of primer, the figure is then painted, head to toe with acrylic paint. Don't get crazy with this crap, paint is paint in most cases. I buy whatever is on sale in which ever color I need whether it needs to be mixed or it's a staple paint like black or white in which I don't finish a figure without the use of. So, we've covered our fig in primer and it's been prepped for paint, we laid down some paint and the fig is ready to be sealed. I then spray with this: After this has been sprayed, the figure will achieve a semi-gloss look, much like the figures we buy from Mattel and Jakks. The difference being, obviously, if you were to try and scratch the figure with a blade or something sharp like a finger nail, eventually you would get through and chip away some of the paint as my parts have not been dyed to fit the color achieved. It will not scuff up any ring canvas' that you might play on, but like all customizes that produced figs with complete repaints, I would advise you to play at your own risk. Hope I helped. I hope you guys can take something away from that post, hope it could help you guys that are having issues with paint rubbing off of your hard work! |
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Deleted
Joined on: Nov 18, 2024 10:34:40 GMT -5
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Mar 4, 2014 2:30:15 GMT -5
chargrove, you're going to give me that Bam Bam, right?
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chargrove
Superstar
Joined on: Nov 4, 2011 1:42:54 GMT -5
Posts: 957
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Post by chargrove on Mar 4, 2014 4:49:14 GMT -5
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Post by marino13 on Mar 4, 2014 8:03:51 GMT -5
Best Raven I've seen. No offense to the others.
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Deleted
Joined on: Nov 18, 2024 10:34:40 GMT -5
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Mar 4, 2014 8:19:38 GMT -5
Guaranteed, that raven head is bad ass... Love the chin strap... Def. my favorite raven so far.
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DIESEL
Main Eventer
(╯°□°）╯︵ ┻━┻
Joined on: Jul 11, 2013 12:01:08 GMT -5
Posts: 2,374
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Post by DIESEL on Mar 4, 2014 8:26:53 GMT -5
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Post by D.B.K. on Mar 4, 2014 9:02:31 GMT -5
chargrove Raven looks amazing. Incredible work!
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cmskunk
Mid-Carder
Joined on: Oct 27, 2013 15:54:13 GMT -5
Posts: 88 
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Post by cmskunk on Mar 4, 2014 9:58:03 GMT -5
nice bam bam
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SGguy
Mid-Carder
Joined on: Aug 14, 2013 8:32:58 GMT -5
Posts: 204
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Post by SGguy on Mar 4, 2014 12:39:17 GMT -5
That repainted Bam Bam Bigelow is really awesome work
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Deleted
Joined on: Nov 18, 2024 10:34:41 GMT -5
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Mar 4, 2014 13:41:30 GMT -5
Thanks for sharing, Chargrove. Here's my own method, which I've found to be very durable.
1. Prep the figure (strip paint, sand surface, etc.).
2. Paint (I use Testors).
3. After sufficient cure time, I seal it with SUPER GLUE; i.e., regular, crazy glue, which you can buy almost anywhere.
There is a method to applying the superglue. Be sure to avoid think layers or drops, otherwise you will get a frost-like look when the glue dries. You can paint it on with a brush, using nail polish remover as thinner. I've found it easier to simply gently dab it on using my finger. If you do it right there is hardly any gloss when finished.
The upside to this method of sealing is that it makes for an extremely durable finish. I make my figures to withstand rough play. Some of my figures have undergone years of rough play and storage and show minimal ware.
The downside is that it's not ideal to use on large surface areas. For that reason I almost never paint skin or entire outfits. You can almost always find ways to get the right factory parts and paints for those larger surface areas.
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